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A Beginner's Guide to Lure Coursing with your Scottish Deerhound
Ellen Bonacarti
Tally-Ho!
- Introduction
One of the most enjoyable past times that a Deerhound owner can share with her hound is the sport of lure coursing. Lure coursing was developed in California in the early 1970s as a way to allow sighthounds to use their hunting skills without chasing live game. The dogs, in pairs or trios, chase an artificial lure (usually a white plastic bag) over a set course plan and are judged in the following categories: enthusiasm, follow, speed, agility and endurance. The title "Field Champion" can be earned when your dog has obtained a certain combination of placements and points competing against others of her breed. This article is not intended to go into a detailed description of lure coursing, rather it is meant to give the reader advice on selecting, raising and training a Scottish Deerhound for lure coursing. There is an excellent
lure coursing FAQ written by Bonnie Dalzell that should answer any questions about the sport in general.
Over the years lure coursing has grown in popularity and today lure coursing trials are held all over the United States. There are two organizations in the U.S. that sponsor lure coursing trials. The first and oldest is the American Sighthound Field Association (ASFA). The other is the American Kennel Club.
For the purposes of this article, I will be referring exclusively to ASFA lure coursing.
- Choosing A Puppy
Unfortunately, there is no guarantee when you buy a Deerhound that the puppy will grow up to be a good lure courser. Unlike some breeds, such as Whippets and Greyhounds, chasing an artificial lure is not an instinctive behavior for Deerhounds. They were bred to hunt live game, not plastic bags. Genetics seems to play some part, so you might look for a litter where there are proven lure coursers in the pedigree, but this is still not a guarantee. Perhaps a better guide is the puppy's personality and attitude. When evaluating a litter, look for the puppy who is active and alert and self-confident. Does she play a little longer and harder than her littermates? Does she watch leaves blowing along the ground and other quick moving objects? Is she keen to chase them? If the answer is yes, there is a good chance that you may be watching a future lure courser. Statistically, the odds are greater of getting a good coursing Deerhound if you select a bitch. Bitches tend to be a little more self-confident and independent while their smaller size helps them negotiate the tight turns of a lure course more easily than a larger male can.
- Early Training
Once you have chosen your future lure courser, starting the puppy out right and developing her instinct to chase is very important. You can begin at home when your puppy is as young as 7 or 8 weeks by simply tying a white sock or plastic grocery bag to the end of a buggy whip or fishing pole and dragging it along the ground for your puppy to chase. Play keep away for a while, then let the puppy grab the lure and play with it. Never let your puppy play too long with the lure and grow bored. Keep the sessions short, fun and exciting. It isn't necessary to practice every day. A couple of times a week is sufficient to start. If your puppy doesn't seem interested, you can try putting some food or treats inside the bag and see if this helps motivate her; or you can tie a piece of rabbit skin to the bag or use an artificial fur lure with a squawker inside, available from the
National Greyhound Association. I always encourage my puppies vocally to "get the bunny" or similar words so that pretty soon they associate "get the bunny" with the lure. Again, keep it fun and don't overdo it!
When your puppy is old enough to start traveling a little, taking her to a lure coursing practice or to a trial just to watch and hang out is a great thing to do. I am a firm believer in teaching my Deerhounds about traveling from a young age. Deerhounds can get very set in their ways, so the sooner they grow accustomed to riding in the car, staying in hotels, doing their business on lead, etc., the better. Then when you are ready to start actual competition, your dog will be a seasoned traveler. Taking your puppy to some coursing trials or practices is very important. Here she will grow accustomed to all the sights and sounds of a trial and be able to concentrate on the lure when the time comes. I've seen many older Deerhounds at their first practice run up to stare at the lure machine or pulleys or be more interested in the other dogs than the lure. Many of these problems can be avoided by getting your Deerhound used to potential distractions as a puppy.
Most lure coursing clubs hold practices at the end of their trials (weather and time permitting). A nominal fee is usually charged. Most clubs will only offer practice on Saturday, not Sunday. Some clubs hold regular, separate practices. The ASFA publication
Field Advisory News (FAN) prints a list of these clubs in every issue.
When you go to a practice, make sure that the lure operator knows your puppy is a beginner and tell him how old she is. Always start by doing a short (50 yards or so) straight, down and back. Do not let your dog attempt any turns or long courses no matter how keen she seems. If she is reluctant to start out, have the lure operator "bump" the lure to get her interest or you can run along with her and encourage her. When she starts to run after the lure, you should stop and do not call her by name or do anything to distract her attention. At the end, encourage her to pounce on the lure and play with it and praise her effusively. As far as practicing with other dogs, up to the age of 4-5 months, it is sometimes helpful to let your puppy practice with another Deerhound puppy of the same age. While in most breeds this is frowned on, Deerhound puppies seem more confident about chasing the lure at that age when they have another puppy for company. Once they are past five months, though, it is better to practice them alone until they are ready to be certified to run in competition.
If your puppy seems keen to run, don't over practice. I still like to take my youngsters to trials for the socialization, but I rarely practice them when I know they are keen and then only on a straight until they are about 9 months old when I introduce a couple of turns. I let them do an occasional practice run of increasing length and difficulty until they are close to a year when I let them do an entire course for the first time. Once they've shown they can handle a full course alone and do the entire course with enthusiasm, it's time to introduce another dog. Be very careful in selecting the dog with whom you practice your Deerhound. Try to find a reliable, steady runner who will ignore your dog if she shows more interest in her running mate than the lure. Try to pick a dog of comparable speed as well, and if possible it should be another Deerhound, although it can be another breed if it is difficult to find another Deerhound in your area. Nothing can be worse than for your Deerhound to have a bad experience when starting out; don't risk running your dog with another inexperienced hound or if you are at all unsure of the other dog's background. Deerhounds are very sensitive and have long memories and a promising career can be cut short by a bad experience. If she shows any sign of interest in the other dog, no matter how slight (e.g., head turning to look or following the dog, not the lure), go back to running her alone for a while to keep her focused on the lure. Continuing to run her with other dogs can reinforce the negative behavior. A couple of clean practice runs with another dog indicate that your hound is ready to be certified to run.
- Certification
Once you are confident that your Deerhound is focused on the lure and will run cleanly with another dog, you can have her certified to compete. The ASFA requires certification before a hound can be entered in a trial (the AKC does not, at this time). The earliest age at which a dog can be certified is 11 months.
Photo: Barbara Ewing
With Deerhounds, it is perhaps better to wait until at least one year of age. Deerhounds mature, both mentally and physically, more slowly than some of the other lure coursing breeds and it is not a good idea to rush them. Certification means that your Deerhound will run a short (around 600 yards) course with another dog (preferably a Deerhound) and her run will be evaluated by a licensed lure coursing judge. If she runs cleanly and doesn't interfere, the judge will certify that she can now be entered in competition. Certification runs are normally held at the end of a coursing trial and a nominal fee may be charged. You will be responsible for finding a dog for your Deerhound to run with in her certification run.
- Entering Your First Trial
Once your Deerhound is certified, you can enter her in a trial. A schedule of trials is published in every issue of FAN. You should also contact the club delegates for coursing clubs in your area and ask to be placed on their mailing list for future events. A list is available in FAN or on the
ASFA web page.
One question that is often asked is how old a Deerhound should be before beginning to compete in lure coursing trials. Is a Deerhound mature enough to run at a year old? There is no set answer to this question. Here is a case where each dog is an individual and you need to know your own dog. Males as a rule mature more slowly, both physically and mentally. If your male still seems very puppyish and in that gangly adolescent phase of development, it might be wiser to wait a bit or run him only at trials where the course plan is short and simple with no sharp turns. When in doubt, ask the advice of your dog's breeder or other experienced Deerhounders. Otherwise, there is no reason you can't go ahead and run your Deerhound at a year of age. Many Deerhounds successfully do so every year.
A word of advice: too often people new to lure coursing allow their hounds to stand and watch course after course. Don't let your dog wear herself out this way. Keep her out of sight and sound of the lure until it is her turn to run. At most, let her watch just the course preceding hers. There is no sense in allowing your dog use up her energy barking and pulling! And try to park far enough away from the course that your dog can't hear the lure machine or watch the courses in progress. If your dog gets loose and runs on the field while a course is in progress, you will be assessed a $5.00 fine. Make sure your dog is securely confined!
You will want to purchase proper equipment for lure coursing. This means a slip, or quick release, lead and a set of coursing blankets. There is almost always someone at a trial who has slip leads and blankets for sale, can help you select the correct size and show you how to use them. Most clubs have extra equipment that you can borrow if necessary.
Photo: Leaping Lizards
- Conditioning
Your Deerhound should be in proper weight and well conditioned before you begin running her. You should never lure course a dog who is overweight or has been spending most of her time sleeping on the couch! A regular conditioning program that combines galloping and walking/trotting will ensure that your Deerhound is in peak physical condition. She will perform better and be less prone to injury. An out of shape or injured dog may get tired and discouraged and learn to quit. Roadwork should never be done with any Deerhound under 12 months of age, however. The stress to their joints and limbs is too great. A young Deerhound can stay very fit with free running and playing in a fenced area. As your Deerhound grows older and her activity level lessens, you may want to begin a conditioning program. An excellent book to read about conditioning and other aspects of canine performance events is Peak Performance: Coaching the Canine Athlete by M. Christine Zink. Another book I highly recommend is Care of the Racing Greyhound: a Guide for Trainers, Breeders and Veterinarians by Blythe, Gannon and Craig. Information on obtaining both is included in the bibliography at the bottom of the page.
- A Word About Weather
Deerhounds do not tolerate heat well. It is probably best to avoid lure coursing during hot weather, especially with an older hound. If you do decide to run your dog on a warm day, you must take extra precautions to prevent her from overheating. Always soak your dog down thoroughly with water before and after she runs. This doesn't mean a light spray on the coat, which will quickly evaporate, but soaking down to the skin. I use a deck sprayer for this purpose and carry at least 10 gallons of water with me. Make sure you have some way of shading your vehicle. There are many different types of shade cloths available for purchase. "Space blankets" are a good choice. I carry enough to cover all the windows in my van. A portable fan you can plug into your car lighter is another useful item. I don't recommend terrycloth cool-down coats. I find they don't stay cold very long and can actually trap your dog's body heat. Of course, plenty of drinking water is essential, although you shouldn't allow your Deerhound to consume a lot of water right after she runs; a few mouthfuls will suffice until she cools down.
As weather forecasts can sometimes be wrong, it's best to get in the habit of carrying the above items with you to all trials. You should always expect the unexpected when it comes to lure coursing (for yourself as well- I always carry rain suit, boots, hats, gloves, etc. in my van). Making up a checklist to go over before the trial is a good idea.
Hot weather or cold, careful warm-up and cool down of your Deerhound is extremely important. Always give her a change to stretch her legs and relieve herself before running. (Most experienced people teach their dogs to relieve themselves on command. There is nothing more embarrassing than having your dog stop in the middle of a course to go to the bathroom!) A little jogging to loosen up her muscles, especially on cold days, is a good idea. Never put your dog back in the car right after she runs. Walk her out for at least 15 minutes (or longer if necessary) to let her cool down and her respiration return to normal. This is a good time to check your dog over for any lameness, cuts or other problems.
- Injuries
Lure coursing injuries to Deerhounds are fortunately rare. Deerhounds are sturdy and have an excellent sense of self-preservation: most will stop if anything is bothering them. The most common injuries I have seen are toe injuries, usually "jammed" or "blown" toes. One way to avoid toe injuries is to make sure that your Deerhound's nails are kept well-trimmed. Overly long nails can catch in the ground and cause an injury. Jammed toes require at least 6-8 weeks rest to heal. Other injuries are rare, but can sometimes occur. When in doubt, ask the opinion of the trial's Field Committee. They will have experienced people who can help you determine if your dog is injured and how. It is a good idea to find the names of any vets in your area who have experience with sighthound performance injuries. You can usually get some recommendations from your fellow coursing enthusiasts.
- Conclusion
There is no more thrilling sight than the beauty and grace of three Deerhounds running at full speed in pursuit of the lure. It is this that keeps those of us who love the sport of lure coursing going back weekend after weekend. Lure coursing is a relaxing and enjoyable way to spend time with your hound and a safe way for your hound to have fun and exercise. Proper training and preparation will help ensure that you and your Deerhound can enjoy lure coursing for a long time to come.
Photo: Shot On Site
Bibliography
- Running Rules and Procedures for Lure Field Trials, January 1999 edition
American Sighthound Field Association (ASFA)
- A Beginner's Guide to Lure Coursing
ASFA
- Lure Coursing: Field Trialing for Sighthounds and How to Take Part
Beaman, Arthur. Howell Book House, 1994
Out of Print but try Powells Books for second-hand copies.
- Care of the Racing Greyhound: a Guide for Trainers, Breeders and Veterinarians. American Greyhound Council, 1994.
Available through the
National Greyhound Association.
- Complete Book of Coursing
Copold, Steve. Hoflin
- Gazehounds and Coursing
Dutch Salmon. High Lonesome Books
- So, You Want to Run Your Sighthound
Como, Denise.
No longer in print, but the author is preparing an updated edition. Contact the author at dcomo@myhost.com
- Peak Performance: Coaching the Canine Athlete
Zink, M. Christine.
Available through Amazon.com or Dogwise.
©2000 Ellen Bonacarti
Ellen Bonacarti has been lure coursing her Scottish Deerhounds since 1987 and has owned or bred a number of Top Ten-ranked ASFA and AKC coursing Champions. She is also an ASFA-licensed all-breed coursing judge and is currently serving her second term on ASFA's Board as Region 8 Director.
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