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Scottish Deerhounds are one of the Obedience world's best kept secrets.

Why Deerhounds are easier to train than many other breeds:

• You don't have to bend over to praise or position them.
• Fairly reliable on (Down) Stays.
• Won't trip over them on left turns (but they may knock you over on fronts).
• Don't need to warm them up much.
• Don't have to work them very long.
• Not terribly creative (won't waste energy being creative) in the ring.
• Seldom tempted to sniff the ground on off-lead heeling.
• Jump heights not a problem.
• No one expects you to qualify; if you do, people are impressed.
• Fairly easy to place in the top 10 for your breed.

Seriously, though, Scottish Deerhounds can be (and have been) trained to the highest levels of obedience. Both authors have put Utility titles on Deerhounds, and currently have CDX Deerhounds in training for Utility.

Some of the things we've found to work well with Deerhounds follow.

1. TEACH ATTENTION FIRST!!!
   Take as long as it takes to get it, and don't start heeling until you have it. We recommend Terri Arnold's 8-week attention course (Steppin' Up to Success), which can be obtained in either book or video form from DogWise or Amazon.com
2. See #1. We aren't kidding!!
3. Break all exercises down into component parts and teach each part thoroughly, and in order, before putting them together.
4. About obedience classes: See #s 1 and 2. Deerhounds can't sustain focused attention for a solid hour (who can?). If you do take obedience classes with your local training club or school, discuss the special needs of sighthounds with your instructor. Deerhounds should not be heeled for more than two or three minutes at a time. If you are in a class which has a lot of emphasis on heeling, ask to step out of line and give your dog a break after a few times around the ring or when you see his/her attention is flagging. Two or three repetitions of any exercise is enough--any more at a time will bore (or frustrate) a deerhound. Classes using motivational methods seem to be best for Deerhounds.
5. Motivators:
   Probably the hardest part of training Deerhounds is finding out what motivates them. This can change from exercise to exercise. Remember, a motivator is what the dog finds motivational, not what you think she should find motivational.

   Food works for many Deerhounds. Try something extra tasty like cheese, chicken or steak pieces. These are Royal Hounds, remember. Hot dogs and dog biscuits are just not appropriate. Our Deerhounds won't work for them. Squeaky toys, bunny skins or a final run in an open field are motivational for some dogs.

Deerhounds may be happy when you are pleased, but pleasing you will not be a priority for most Deerhounds. And, let's face it, Deerhounds are lazy. They will do what they feel is in their own best interests. Some degree of compulsion is usually required. We train with prong collars right up until we are ready to show. Used properly, these are humane and effective training aids. Unfortunately, they have often been misused, and have gained an undeserved bad reputation with the uninformed. If you are not familiar with the proper use of these collars, it is important to get help from someone who is. Properly fitted prong collars should not fit tightly, but should be loose enough to move around on the dog's neck. The leash should never be jerked, but held with just enough slack so that the dog will correct itself.

Set your standards high--Deerhounds can do obedience and enjoy it. Don't accept compromises just because they're not an "obedience breed."

GOOD LUCK!!!!!!!